Beyond Tokyo: Discovering Japan’s Natural Wine Scene Beyond the Capital
There is no doubt that Tokyo has one of the best natural wine scenes in the world, with a huge variety of wine bars and restaurants showcasing fantastic diversity within their wine lists. However, beyond this large metropolis, there are a number of other notable venues that definitely should not be overlooked, as we found on a recent trip.
Howene (Kyoto)
After a lengthy walk from downtown Kyoto, we arrived at Howene. A beautiful large glass front frames the wine bar almost like a moving painting. With records lining the wall, we knew we were in for a good time. The service and space immediately make you feel at ease, and the venue has a wine list to match. A number of cult producers are represented here alongside a selection of Japanese natural winemakers. On the night, we chose a wine from Patrick Bouju of Domaine La Bohème in Auvergne — specifically J, made from Jacquère grapes from Savoie that were vinified in Auvergne — and enjoyed it as records played in the background.
84-1 Sueyoshichō, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0912, Japan
Memoire (Takayama)
Within the Japanese Alps lies Takayama, a serene mountain town with an old town left unchanged and unaffected by previous conflicts, unlike many other Japanese cities. Within the town is Memoire, a beautiful restaurant a stone’s throw from both the historic old town and Takayama Station. On offer are beautifully curated dishes using locally sourced produce from in and around Takayama, as well as a wine list that highlights bottles from Europe and also from the Gifu prefecture.
1-22 Honmachi, Takayama, Gifu 506-0011, Japan
Sot-l’y-laisse (Kyoto)
Who doesn’t love chicken? Behind the plastic curtains, Sot-l’y-laisse is a yakitori-style restaurant serving fun and exciting natural wines alongside a dynamic and delicious menu. Here you can order a whole chicken — innards optional — as well as grilled romaine lettuce and other sides. This is an absolute must-try when visiting Kyoto.
570-120 Gionmachi Minamigawa, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0074, Japan